Tie Melting Tool - Getting The "Gap" Out of the Ties
While cutting a rail joiner to half or 2/3rds its normal length will shorten the gap between two pieces of track or a turnout, we still end up with that unsightly gap in the ties. While we might remember to slide a "dummy" tie underneath, more likely than not, we'll forget until it comes time to do the ballasting and then it becomes a pain in the posterior.
If you're into "module railroading", you know that a joiner track connects the track between modules and the rail joiners are supposed to slide completely under the ends of the track on the module. However the rail joiners don't slide so easily - simply because we're butting up against the plastic ties and track spikes. And if the rails terminate in Atlas Snap Track, the rail joiner only slides halfway underneath. While we can lop off the plastic track spikes, we're still left with the plastic ties. In no time flat, we have the ends of the rails popped out of their ties because somebody didn't take the time to gingerly push the rail joiners back into position.
Here's a Tie Melting Tool that, combined with a soldering iron, will remove a lot of those headaches.
We've taken a Rail Joiner Cutting Tool, slid a rail joiner about 1/4th to 1/3rd of the way onto the rail end, and then hit the web of the rail joiner and rail with a centre punch so that the rail joiner won't slide off the end of the rail.
When we're joining two pieces of rail together, we cut the plastic spikes and tie plates off of the last tie on each piece of rail. We then slide the Tie Melting Tool onto the end of the rail and underneath the first tie. We carefully apply our soldering iron to the rail joiner. The soldering iron heats up the Tie Melting Tool which we can then gently press into the softened plastic tie. This makes a depression in the soft plastic. We then quickly pull the Tie Melting Tool out of the rail. We repeat this process on all 4 rails.
Our rail joiner now slides easily underneath the end ties on each piece of rail and we can adjust the spacing between the two pieces of track so that they look more realistic.
Rail Joiner Insertion Tool
My eyes aren't what they used to be and I'm all thumbs when it comes to installing rail joiners onto the end of the rails. Here's a little tool that makes it a lot easier to install those rail joiners.
Take a block of wood 3/4" wide x 11/4" high and about 4" long. Drill a 1/16" hole in one end - 3/8" in the middle and 1/4" from the bottom edge that is about 11/4"" deep. Cut a piece of of Code 100 rail that is 4" long. Tap the rail into the hole in the wooden block. Using a pair of pliers, bend 1/2" of the end of the rail up about 45 degrees. Nip the end of the rail off so that the bent end is about half the length of a rail joiner. Dress the end of the rail with a file (bottom, sides, web and top of the rail) so that a rail joiner easily slides onto the end of the rail. If you find that you don't have enough of the rail joiner sticking out, simply file a bit off the end of the rail.
Voila! A rail joiner insertion tool.
Here's another look at that Rail Joiner Insertion Tool with a rail joiner on the end. (A bit fuzzy but we'll have to fix that up.)
Now that we've got the Rail Joiner Insertion Tool made, let's take a look at its companion.
Rail Joiner Cutting Tool
I find that a full-length rail joiner spoils the effect of good trackwork. The track can be nicely weathered, ballasted so that it resembles the real thing, scenicked to show whether it's mainline track, branchline, or siding. And then we get to see that humongously huge rail joiner.
Here's a little trick I use to hide those rail joiners. I simply cut them in half or in 2/3rds. However, if you use cutters or rail nippers, the two flanges collapse into the joiner which then becomes useless. So, I use the Cutting Tool and an Atlas Snap Saw (a cutoff-disc on a Dremel also works well) to cut the rail joiner to length.
As with the Insertion Tool, the Cutting Tool is simply a block of wood 3/4"x 1 1/2"x 4" with a 1/16" hole drilled in one end. Lightly tap a piece of rail (about 4" long) into the hole until it's securely seated. Dress up the end of the rail with a file so that a rail joiner easily slides onto the end of the rail.
Voila! A Rail Joiner Cutting Tool.
To use the tool, simply slide the rail joiner onto the tool about halfway (or 2/3rds of the way). Place the rail end of the tool and the rail joiner on a block of wood. Using the Atlas Snap Saw, draw the blade backwards (not forward!) across the exposed rail joiner. About a half dozen slices will cut the joiner in two.
However, we have burrs on the cut that will stop the installation of the rail joiner. Push the rail joiner completely onto the rail end of the tool so that the burrs on the cut are pushed out (you may need to use a pair of pliers for that first push). Now, slide the rail joiner forward until the cut is exposed. Trim the burrs and dress the cut end with a file. Re-push the rail joiner back onto the rail, push forward and re-dress. Repeat this process until the rail joiner slides freely on the rail.
Insert the rail joiner onto your track with the Rail Joiner Insertion Tool, cut end first. Why "cut end first"? Because it's easier to slide the cut end onto the track with the Joiner Tool than to insert the other piece of track into the cut end. Or to state the same thing another way - it's easier to slide the other piece of track into the manufactured end of the rail joiner than onto the cut end.
Modifying Rail Joiners For Code-83-to Code-100 Track
I developed this tip when I was considering building my modules with Code 83 track rather than Code 100. I felt that Code 83 would look better than Code 100. However, when I looked at Code 83 turnouts, I didn't like their flimsiness. I preferred the robust construction of the Code 100 turnouts, particularly the Code 100 Peco Insulfrogs. However, there was going to be a problem. There would have been a difference of 17/1,000ths of an inch between the two types of rail (Code 100 - Code 83 = 17/1,000ths). So, I needed a special kind of rail joiner.
I simply used the Rail Joiner Cutting Tool and my Atlas Snap Saw (remember to pull the blade back and not forward!) to cut a slot in the middle of the rail joiner as shown in the photo below. I then installed the rail joiner on the two pieces of track (Code 83 track and Code 100 turnout). Next, I placed a thin flat file under the Code 83 track and pushed down on the Code 100 track until the top of the Code 100 track was level with the Code 83 track. I used a bit of solder, flux, and my soldering iron to solder the rail joiner in place.
Trains go over the joint very smoothly. A well ballasted and scenicked roadbed and you'd never know it was a Code 100 turnout.
If you came in halfway, or haven't seen our first page, click on this link to see How I Build My Model Railroad Modules.
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